Neil Risdon (Calcott Hall, Essex) -
Cumberland Pork
A
friend of the family told us
about a farm shop they
regularly use on the Ongar
Road (A128) just outside
Brentwood. They have a
REALLY good butchers, a
comprehensive fresh fish and
cheese shop, and an
extensive green grocery too.
Not to mention a very nice
cafeteria. So, we like a
recommendation like that...
Calcott Hall if you are
coming from Ongar is on the
right just before the bridge
over the A12 to Brentwood.
They won the 2021 Farm
Retail Association Award for
Large Farm Shop as it
happens. The butchery run by
Neil Risdon within Calcott
Hall is promoted as "High
Class Butchers" and
certainly is what it says it
is. We were well impressed.
Neil and his staff have time
to speak to customers about
cuts and joints and how to
be best cook such just like
I remember "old school"
butchers used too. Well
stocked counters and
excellent looking produce
too.
So after loading up in the
green grocery with proper
potatoes (still with a bit
of field dirt on them),
massive onions, colossal
broccoli and some absolutely
wonderfully smelling roasted
garlic, we hit the butchery
and between us we did buy
quite a few things, but of
course that included some
sausages. The cumberland
porks looked particularly
interesting in the display
so along with a few
traditional porks we moved
on to the fresh fish
counter. I could go on but
back to the sausages...
Cumberland porks go down
very well here. There's
something about that slight
zing of pepper and spice you
taste that is so good.
82% Essex pork in natural
skins sounds good to me.
We believe there is wheat
rusk in these so are
unlikely to be gluten free. Coming in at £9.99 / kg to
is very reasonable too these
days. Decent sausages in
decent skins do cost. Yes
you can buy cheaper but
let's face it the difference
between a decent sausage and
a "fat stick" is pretty
obvious.
Cooked up though the skins
browned really well and
showed no signs of bursts,
splits or ruptures and kept
their innards nicely
together. No nasty white
stuff leaking in to the pan
either, or indeed any oil
residue that was cooked out.
Skrinkage and weight loss
was very much under control
too. We pan fry all our
samples for consistency, so
if you do oven bake or grill
you may get a slightly
different result.
Texture-wise we'd say medium
to firm. They cut really
well without tearing, and
the bite and chew was very
good. The flavour was as we
hoped, peppery with slight
zing. Lovely.
Would we buy again? Of course
we would.
Neil
Risdon (Calcott Hall, Essex) -
Cumberland Pork
(Aug 2024)
Here's the
sample details:
110x30mm before cooking, 105x30mm
after.
77g before cooking, 69g after.
That's a shrinkage of 4% & weight loss of approx
10%.
6 loose sausages (616g) £6.15
(£9.99 / Kg)

www.calcotthall.com/butchery